Chapter 2: Ancient Paths to The Land of the North Folk

Sat 3rd June

Day 1: Ivinghoe Beacon to Streatley
(Approx 20 miles B&B The Chequers)

After sunset last night, the temperature dropped, so I retreated to my tent. I struggled to get warm, and a heavy dew fell in the night

A festival, a few fields over, their music  which had drifted in and out all evening, intensified 2 am. I’m not even sure you could call it music. The wind had now dropped, so the base carried across the night

Reverbirating through the earth to my tent, waking the dead and disturbing the worms from their slumber

It raged on until sunrise 4am, then abruptly stopped. The world fell silent, and a soothing dawn chorus began. My weary body tried to fall into slumber, but my back now hurt, and I drifted in and out of sleep

So I lay listening to the skylarks cheery chatter above. The wind had picked up again, I shook the dew off the tent, to dry

My bladder and waking campers, finally got me up. The smell of bacon filled the air

Last nights festivities were the talk of the town. Apparently, it’s on again tonight. I was glad I was leaving.

After breaking camp and grabbing a coffee from the breakfast hut, I headed off rather later than intended, 9.15 am.

Leaving the campsite, I soon found myself back on familiar chalk paths. A climb to get onto the ridge. But my pace was good, and I felt strong. A definite improvement on last year ‘fail to prepare, prepare to  fail’

The paths were lined with pink and white hawthorn blossom. Lots of Kite displays, their haunting calls, and aerial acrobatics, a stark contrast to the frequent planes. We are on the flight path for Luton Airport

I turned off before Ivinghoe Beacon and picked up my first markers

The logo adopted by the Icknield Way is a Flint Axe reflecting the historic connection of the Icknield Way and the flints from Norfolk.

Shortly, the trail entered woodland, filled with birdsong. I paused to try out my new cool,’Merlin’ app. You can identify birds by photo or call

I know you are downloading it now…

The weather felt heavy, and I was dogged by a headache all day. For most of the morning, I walked on shady trails, and a fresh wind kept me cool

Took my life in my hands, crossing a golf course. A ball plopped on the ground by my feet. Those ladies have a mean swing

The trail follows the boundary fence of Whipsnade Zoo. It’s not every day that you see a herd of elephants on the trail

Midday, I arrived at the Tree Cathedral, which provided a good place to stop for ‘breakfast’. A two day old peanut butter and banana wrap and a boiled egg

The trail follows the chalk ridge, parallel to the Chiltern Way, to the Chiltern centre. Its kite flying and hand gliding central with great views of the surrounding landscape. Another coffee to refuel, but I got it to go. It was getting late.

From here, it was metalled cycle trails with little shade. It was hot and hard on the feet.

The five knolls lie at the end of the ridge, in ‘California’.

Then, the trail drops down onto the outskirts of Dunstable and Totternhoe. The latter boasts several knolls and Maiden Bower, which the trail passes.

Feeling every kilo of my pack now, I trudged on to Sewell and some very confusing trail markers. Two leading up a bank with no access and one past Sewell Manor, take this one. It leaves the cycle path and onto leafy tracks

This was the first of four times that markers led me off route. I wouldn’t recommend following the Icknield Way markers. There are so many different routes that it’s easy to get lost. Plan and follow your route on OS maps

After crossing the A505, I was led off route again. The trail then passes through industrial areas. They have done well to make it pretty, but you can’t really disguise a huge Amazon warehouse and a housing estate.

At Wingfield, an Icknield Way marker points left. I could see no sign of this marked on OS maps. Turn right past the pub, and stop at All Saints Church Chalgrave. It contains medieval wall paintings.

At White Hart Farm, there are three signs on a post. Turn right down the road and pick up the path at the bottom to cross the M1 to Streatley

The middle post goes to Toddington, which is a documented end stage in guides

Pushing on over the M1, I was fatigued and had frequent cramps in my feet and legs. The last few miles, as always, feels the hardest. A gradual climb to ‘Upper’ Sundan, clue in the name.

The Icknield Way followed a ‘pointless’ long route from here. So I took a short cut along the John Bunyan Trail to reach The Chequers by 7.15 pm.

So what did we miss, by not following the Icknield Way Trail? Sharpenhoe Clappers an Iron Age promontory fort, medieval warren and associated medieval cultivation earthworks

Feeling rather sick, from over exhertion and sleep deprivation, I fell through the door and straight into a hot shower. Which promptly set of the smoke alarm

A nibble on a baked potatoe and beans settled my stomach. Then I retired hoping for an early night. But alas, it’s Saturday night, there is a live 80s band playing till midnight…

Another long day tomorrow, breakfast is not being served till 9 am. Its too later for me, so they are making me a ham sandwich to go.

Good night…

If you would like to walk some or all of these stages with me, please feel free to get in touch

If you want to catch up on the story so far see the link: https://wordpress.com/post/fern-weh.uk/753

If you enjoy my tales you may wish to consider buying me a Coffee.
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Thank you, I will need them…