Chapter 2: Ancient Paths to The Land of the North Folk

Mon 5th June

Day 3: Baldock to Chrishall
(Approx 19 miles – Lynchets Farm

A day of discomfort

My first experience of Air BnB was positive. Albeit a bit odd, having walked miles, feeling deliriously tired, and having to be social with strangers at their house

Nonetheless, they were amazingly accommodating, and very nice Folk.

I slept heavily and woke groggy, but I felt rested. Packing was a tricky affair, trying not to rustle things and wake the household

After nicking an apple, I was out the door 7.30am, into a cold wind, under cloudy skies. My intention was to grab breakfast on route, but villages were quiet and sleepy with no facilities

The Icknield Way Trail takes a dog leg away from the A505, then runs parallel to it. Ironically the A505 follows the course of the ancient Icknield Way. I wonder if drivers are aware of the significance of this route.

It was easy walking through tall barley and hay fields, miles and miles of long straight fields, over a gentle undulating landscape

The skylarks above, were deafening, competing with traffic noise no doubt.

By 9am, I was in a lot of discomfort, my left boot was digging into the top of my foot. My right boot was digging into my ankle. The laces were slowly unravelling. My shoulders hurt from the weight of my pack. And the hip straps wouldn’t synch in any further. Why do they make them so big

By Wallington I was desperately seeking coffee. Oh wait, have I been here before or was that Wallingford/Watlington!

George Orwells house is on the left as you walk into town. The town was very quite and no shops to be seen, so I kept walking

10.30 I reached Sandon, again no shops, cafes. The pub was closed on Mondays. So I headed to the Church on a quest for holy coffee and cake. But there was none

A cheeky short cut, took me to Therfield. A nice little win that saved time and my feet. The Icknield Way Trail, went back on itself and around.

As its not the original path, I saw no reason to follow it. Our ancient ancestors would have taken the most direct route, and so did I.

On the stroke of midday, I arrived at the church. There was no holy coffee or cake there either, but it had beautiful roses and a lot of onions! Jackdaws, shouted loudly in the eves

Between Therfield and Royston is Therfield Heath and Barrow Cemetary

An hour later, I was in Royston and had to settle for Costa coffee, and an undigestable Mozarrela and tomato panini.

Royston is situated at the junction of the Icknield Way and Ermine Street, and has a history dating back to the early middle ages.

Royston caves was on my to do list, unfortunately it’s only open sat/sun, BH and Weds. Odd opening hours, what a nuisance.

Royston cave is man-made cave with medieval carvings. There is some speculation that they are associated with the Knights Templar

Managed to buy some new boot laces and surgical tape, before pushing on to Chrishall. The final part of today’s route, again, runs adjacent to the ancient Icknield Way (A505) through woodland tracks, hedged footpaths, rough tracks, and more barley fields

It was along this last section that I came across Nick. A retired amateur entomologist, who like me had a passion for beetles.

There, he was swooshing his net into the undergrowth collecting specimens. He records all his data, and it helps research into their continued decline. He showed me a rare European beetle that has moved up the UK due to warmer weather.

We had a very interesting chat, what a treat.

Another hours walking was made more arduous  as the sun decided to come out, all but briefly. Arriving at Lynchets Farm, which has a small field, my accommodation for the night

A Korean lady accosted me immediately and wanted to know where I was from, where I’m going. A lovely lady, but I just want to get my boots off and lie down

The rest of my day was spent in ‘rest and repair mode. But first.. ready the camp. I was blowing up my air mat and kinda passed out… I didn’t know where I was for a minute… weird… don’t try this at home

Time for food, I was so hungry, I would have eaten the backside out of a rhino

If you would like to walk some or all of these stages with me, please feel free to get in touch

If you want to catch up on the story so far see the link: https://wordpress.com/post/fern-weh.uk/753

If you enjoy my tales you may wish to consider buying me a Coffee.
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Thank you, I will need them…