Chapter 2: Ancient Paths to The Land of the North Folk

Sun 11th June

Day 8: Great Cressingham to Castle Acre
(Approx 11 miles – Bunk Old Red Lion

Walking like a Roman

Amourous noisy pigeons woke me around 4/5 am. But I managed to sleep in until 7 am

After yesterdays heat, I wanted to crack on early, as it was going to be another hot one. But the toilets were locked and didn’t open until 7 a.m., so that hampered progress a little.

I decamped as best I could before finally being able to wash and fill up with water

Breakfast in the pub, started from 7 am, and could have been a sumptuous affair. But I thought I’d better keep it light. Muesli, toast and coffee it is then.

The camping was donation only, bonus. A packed lunch to go and I set off 8.20 am, to beat the heat, but the heat was already here. 

The road back to Peddars Way took around 20 mins. Then it was more road walking, a hot, sweaty affair. Patches of shade where the hedges were high

Just after Caudle Common, there was a sign for St Mary’s Church Historic Murals. Better have a gander at that. But alas, it was locked, a wasted 20 min walk up and down a dusty track

The gardener arrived just as I was leaving. She explained it had to be locked as a Grade 2 listed building, and viewings were by arrangement only.

It has a flint Norman round tower and walls. A Church has stood there since 1075. Inside there are many historic memorials and an 1857 organ with magnificient painted winged doors

I ambled back down the lane, to take the path ‘behind’ the hedge to continue to a small woods just after North Pickenham where there was some respite from the sun.

I was going to seek shelter in the village church here, and seek holy coffee, but it was off route and I didn’t want to take any more detours

Just outside Swatham the route crosses the A47. There are services here, McDs and a Spar. The cold air con was a life saver in this heat. I stopped for a large coke and to soak my hand towel with cold water. I walked with this on the back of my neck for the rest of the day

Other than that, it was a hard slog mostly by road, and byways through agricultural land. As I plodded along, trying not to think about the heat and my itchy fly bites from yesterday.

I imagined how Roman soldiers must have felt. Marching across this dry baron dusty land, in sandles and heavy military gear

Although sandles sounded like a great idea right now. I had walked with my boots undone all day to allow room for my heat swollen hobbit feet.

I noticed a distinct lack of butterflies on this journey. I have seen the odd one, but not as many as I would expect in such a habitat, lack of water?

Finally, a sign for Castle Acre, I was glad

Passing another pig farm, I felt sad for them. Lots of growling and squealing as they fort each other for scarce patches of damp ground. They must be so hot out in the exposed fields. Don’t pigs get sun burned and heat stroke .. it concerned me

A sign saying ‘Ford Deep Water’ pleased me no end. I sincerely hoped there was deep water

A wonderful site came into view, the ruins of a priory and water, lovely cold water. I ripped of my boots and joined other locals soaking their feet. I’m sure they hissed as stepped in

Time to find my accommodation, I had plans for this afternoon. Boots back on, I plodded up to the town, to be met by an icecream van hurtling down

He yelled out the window, “Are there people down by the river?”T

“There certainly are,” I replied. Off he went, after selling this hot traveller, a refreshing lemony ice lolly, music chiming away toward the river

2pm, I was finally at my accommodation, the Red Lion, a former pub and now hostel. I was a little concerned as the host Alison had not responded to my final confirmation

The gardener greeted me and explained that she was here a few minutes ago, and that she often goes off for a nap. He assured me it would be fine, there was plenty of room… curious indeed

So I dropped my pack and explored the Castle. Castle Acre takes its name from the walled castle built in the 12th-century by the Normans.

A very impressive structure, made entirely of flint. It was a great place to sit and enjoy my packed lunch. Real thick sliced beef, kindly prepared by staff at the Old Windmill Inn

Fortified, I wandered off to the Priory, also built entirely of flint. Beautifully crafted, with well-preserved carvings, painted beams, and even a toilet block. Home to only 30 monks, it was a large building and would have looked magnificent in its day.

It would have been a lovely place to soak up the atmosphere, swifts gliding above calling. But I’d had enough of the heat, so headed for my lodgings

Popping into the Ostrich Pub, to arrange food. They stopped serving at 6 pm, so I ordered a sandwich to go, and had a quick half while I waited

Back at the Old Red Lion, Alison appeared, not what I was expecting. It’s hard to put an age on people, but she must have been in her late 80s. A diminutive fragile looking woman, but sharp and intelligent with a quick humour

She showed me around, and we chatted. She told me she was born before the last war. WW2, I presumed. And that she was from farming stock. She asked me what time I would be leaving in the morning, as she was running a yoga class. My jaw hit the floor

This place is amazing, I would recommend. Endless rooms, pretty tranquil garden, with beautiful scented roses.

My dorm is empty but for me. Alison recommended a bath and even provided me with some radox. Bless her, what a lovely lady and such an inspiration

My favourite place and most enjoyable so far, not the walking, thats been hell lol

I’m not looking forward to tomorrow. 20 dead straight miles to Holme next to sea. If the temperature stays high, it will be a real challenge

They have forcast rain for days, and again for tomorrow. Some cloud was forming but not much.

Fingers crossed for cooler weather. I will be leaving very early for that final push, back to my beastie. I hope she is OK

Until tomorrow

If you would like to walk some or all of these stages with me, please feel free to get in touch

If you want to catch up on the story so far see the link: https://wordpress.com/post/fern-weh.uk/753

If you enjoy my tales you may wish to consider buying me a Coffee.
ko-fi.com/fernweh

Thank you, I will need them…