‘The One that Got Away‘
The story so far… in 2018, I hatched a plan to follow in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims. These devout travellers crossed the seas from Ireland to the coast of Cornwall, navigated perilous wild lands, and then embarked across the seas once more, landing on the North Coast of Spain to walk to Santiago de Compostela.
The Celtic Camino and the Wild Atlantic Way
The Cathedral of Santiago grants a Compostela to pilgrims who complete the 75km Camino Inglés route from A Coruña to Santiago, provided they have already completed a certified 25km pilgrimage in their country of origin. Camino Society Ireland has defined authentic pilgrim routes within Ireland and named the combined 25 km walked in Ireland with the 75 km from A Coruña, the “Celtic Camino.”
So, the first part of this story finds me in Ireland, winding my way along the rugged Wild Atlantic Way (WAW), bagging five Pilgrim routes along the way. But this is part of a bigger plan and a longer story that has been travelled, yet remains untold…
The Challenge
To obtain the Teastas Oilithreachta (Pilgrim Certificate) from Ballintubber Abbey, five ancient pilgrim routes through some of the most captivating scenery in the Irish landscape must be completed:
- Finbarr’s Way (37km)
- Cnoc Na dTobar (9km)
- Cosan Na Naomh (18km)
- Tóchar Phádraig (35km) – The one that got away
- St. Kevin’s Way (30km)
These Pilgrim Routes are distinct from the Wild Atlantic Way, which at 1,600 miles (2,600 km) in length, is one of the longest defined coastal routes in the world. The WAW winds all along the Irish west coast from the picturesque town of Kinsale, County Cork, in the south up to Inishowen Peninsula in the north. My plan was to strategically combine the two, completing the required pilgrim paths as I travelled the Wild Atlantic Way.
And so, on May 5th, 2018, after travelling through the night by land and sea, I arrived on a misty morning on the South coast of Ireland at Old Head of Kinsale, gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way and the start of my journey.
I completed enough of the Pilgrim routes to qualify for the certificate, travelling as far as Clifden before I had to return home. This time, I’m returning to finish what I started. I’m travelling to the North of Ireland and will journey South to take on Tóchar Phádraig and the brooding and majestic Croagh Patrick.
Ireland Bound:
Thursday, June 13th 2024: The Journey Begins (Part 1)
This week, my trusty van, affectionately known as ‘The Beast,’ was steadily packed for the journey. I’m still waiting for that one thing I inevitably forgot—there’s always something!
At 5:30 pm sharp, I set off into a murky evening, fueled by my good friend Gilly’s Fruit and Walnut Travel Cake, coffee, and the obligatory Cornish pasty. Aside from the usual drama of navigating the ‘new’ A30, it was smooth sailing. I even discovered a fantastic stopover I wish I’d found sooner: Fromebridge Mill Pub in Whitminster, Gloucester (GL2 7PB), just off M5 J13. It’s a quiet spot right by the river, a vast improvement on a layby near Walsall!
Tomorrow promises a nice, steady cruise to Anglesey, where I’ll catch the ferry to Dublin.
Friday 14th June 2024: Ireland bound – Side Quests & Near Misses (Part 2)
After a peaceful night by the river and a cheerful wake-up call from a tiny wren with a surprisingly big, bubbly voice, I was ready for more.
With Anglesey Ferry Port a good 3.5 hours away, I decided to embark on a few side quests. My first stop was the impressive Uley Long Barrow, complete with giant cave spiders. I confess, I kind of wished I hadn’t brought the head torch for that one!
Next on my list, Nympsfield Longbarrow. Sadly exposed, no doubt by those pesky antiquarians, but still a nice little find.
Its chambers, shaped like a cross, reminded me of a tiny Wayland Smithy. I noted this significant layout, which I’ve since learned is commonplace across many great passage tombs. This one came complete with giant cave spiders – I confess, I kind of wished I hadn’t brought the head torch for that!
Next, it was on to Greyfriars Abbey. Honestly, it really wasn’t worth the detour. Being right next to a shopping centre, there was little atmosphere; it felt neglected and completely out of place.
So, I wandered down to the cathedral and old town. I didn’t go inside; it states entrance by donation, a suggested £5. Then there’s a long queue at a counter where they can shame you for not paying. But I had a nice wander about and grabbed a late breakfast. Then, totally miscalculating the time for this side quest, I realised I was leaving it a bit late for the ferry. How did I manage to let that happen?!
Now I was burning rubber. One minute I was making good time, and then I hit traffic. Then I’d think I was going to make it, then more hold-ups. It was a very intense drive. I was cursing every slow Joe on the road. Finally, Anglesey! But 30 minutes out, the road was closed. No warning; it just diverted back to Bangor. My heart sank. All that way, to be thwarted at the last minute! Long traffic queues due to a lane closure—a nightmare. I felt nauseous.
But after a few hundred yards, the road miraculously cleared, and I flew like the wind. Probably breaking several speed limits, I screeched into the Irish Ferries terminal 19.25 pm with literally five minutes to spare!
No more side quests for me…
It was smooth sailing from here, (3hrs 25mins) albeit the sea was a bit turbulent. An announcement even recommended that we stay seated for the duration. Some delicious spaghetti bolognese, with Irish beef, and a nice snooze, and I was ready to head off again.
Now on Ireland’s shores, it was late, but it was a straightforward three-hour drive from Dublin to Londonderry. Be prepared for tolls – they like those! But the roads are big and long and pretty quiet. A quiet car park on the outskirts of town, with a bunch of other vans provided my bed for the night. Rain pattered on the roof, and I looked forward to a good night’s sleep and a proper Irish breakfast in the morning.
Tales From The Trails 
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