Wild Atlantic Way: Full Circle

The Journey Home

My stories never end, and neither, it seems, do the adventures.

Friday 28th June 2024
Birthday Quests

The ferry was late getting into Holyhead, 12:30 am. We were supposed to arrive at midnight, and we couldn’t disembark until 1 am. Frustrating as I had a long drive ahead to Cadair Idris. It was my birthday, and the plan was to park there overnight—well, the rest of the night—and climb the mountain in the morning. But after very little sleep on the ‘ferry where no one sleeps’, I was tired and a bit disoriented. I only made it as far as Porthmadog, where, courtesy of the Park4Night app, I found a tiny spot to park for the night. Remember to stay left, or you’ll end up in an ANPR car park – I drove in and out quickly!

Cadair Idris

The sound of work lorries woke me just before dawn, and uncertain if I should be there, I quickly got on the road and set off Cadair Indris.

The Tŷ Nant carpark was deserted when I arrived, confirming my good call to stop in Porthmadog as there was no overnight parking here, though they did have toilets. At 893m (2,930 ft), Cader (or Cadair) Idris is one of the highest mountains in southern Eryri (Snowdonia). It’s a popular peak to conquer, and one I had not hiked before.

My chosen route, the Pony Path, starts from the Dolgellau side of Cader. It’s probably the most popular route, heading up the mountainside to the curve of the cliff edge above Llyn y Gader. Leaving the car park at 7 am, I crossed the road to the trailhead. Armed with my hiking poles today, my legs were still a little wobbly after Croagh Patrick. There was a gentle ascent initially, with steps in several places.

There were spectacular views over the Mawddach estuary towards Barmouth. And on the ridge over Llyn y Gader, there were great views inland towards Bala and over the lake.

There is a famous “cracked stone” on the Pony Path route up Cadair Idris. It’s often referred to as Y Garn or sometimes “The Split Stone”.

It’s a large, distinctive boulder that has a very clear, prominent crack or split running through it. It was a great place to pause and have the last of my Irish Treacle bread before heading to the summit.

A steep rocky path leads to Penygadair, then a very gusty scramble up to the trig point, taking care to stay away from the drops on either side.

It was gusting quite badly, and visibility was now poor. My hiking poles were essential for balance but also a bit of an obstacle on this tricky terrain.

I reached the summit just before 10 am, to be greeted by a man running down—there is always someone to make your achievements look small! He was from Devon, small world.

Legend has it that Cader is named after a giant called Idris. ‘Cadair Idris’ in English means ‘Chair of Idris’, while ‘Cader’ could also refer to an ancient fortress. It’s locally known as Cader Idris rather than Cadair, but either may be used. The most well-known tale is that if you spend the night on the mountain, you’ll end up mad or a poet.

Caution should be taken if staying overnight on the peak, as the small shelter is exposed and the cliff edges are dangerous in bad weather, especially in low visibility. It looked very bleak and forbidding, but a life saver in bad weather

Usually, there is a helpful man atop every summit who obligingly takes my picture, but sadly, it was the wrong timing today. A birthday selfie it was then, in between gusts. A brief stop at the summit, due to the strong winds, before descdending via Cyfrwy (The Saddle)

Heading back down, two young lads approached the summit, one looking less than pleased, the other quite chatty. They had camped out last night and got a little lost en route with the poor visibility.

The poor visibility at the summit meant careful navigation. As I dislike out-and-back routes, I chose a different path off the mountain, creating a circular loop before descending out of the thick mist and rejoining the main trail.

The car park was full of school minibuses on my return, carrying a large group of young Muslim girls who had traveled to Wales from Birmingham. Their tutors, oddly all male, greeted me warmly and offered me food and snacks from their ample provisions, which was incredibly kind. Intrigued by a lone female hiker, one of the tutors then invited me to give an impromptu talk about my hiking experiences. He felt it would be inspiring for the girls to learn that women can do such things. It was quite the honor to be an unexpected role model – it was very heart warming.

Continuing my journey home, some unexpected “fun and games” unfolded on a steep hill along the A470, the main road connecting Dolgellau and Ludlow. This particular stretch, near the village of Dinas Mawddwy, is notorious for its mountainous terrain and challenging inclines.

Traffic had ground to a complete halt in both directions, presenting quite a scene. An older lady towing a caravan, had attempted to overtake a broken-down vehicle, and found her car struggling. The weight of the caravan constantly pulling her car backwards down the hill, no one could move up or down the road. It was a tense situation, and there was little anyone could do but watch. I truly admired her calm demeanor and sheer persistence. Eventually, she managed to gain enough traction, slowly but surely made progress, and we all finally went on our way.

After that, I was in need of refreshment and stumbled across the very beautiful Stokesay Castle, for a spot of Birthday cakey tea. I can’t believe I’ve never been here before, it’s a superb place.

It’s often described as England’s finest and best-preserved fortified manor house from the late 13th century, more a grand home than a castle, with its impressive timber-framed gatehouse and charming hall.

I would kill for the gardens and could have stayed here happily all day.

#CadairIdris#PonyPath#WelshMountains#Eryri#BirthdayHike#MountainAdventure#SummitViews#StokesayCastle#EnglishHeritage#MedievalCastle#Shropshire#CastleGardens#UKCastles

The side quests continueGlastonbury: Oblivious to the Worthy Wonders
Saturday June 29th 2025

Fromebridge Mill Pub, once again provided a welcome refuge after a fun packed day yesterday. Good food and a safe harbour for the night and a relaxed departure this morning.

My journey home continued, and I drifted into a quiet glastonbury town. I don’t remember it being this quiet, the last time I was here in 2012. I had a pleasant few hours wandering about in peaceful streets, and Glastonbury Abbey, the historic monastic site, blissfully unaware that the iconic event was unfolding nearby.

It was getting late and all adventures must come to an end, even if it’s only so a new adventure can begin, onward to Cornwall, and home … until the next time …

#JourneyHome#UntilNextTime#NextAdventure#TravelBlog#CornwallBound

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2 responses to “Wild Atlantic Way: Full Circle”

  1. lorraine furneaux Avatar
    lorraine furneaux

    Wow it’s a whole other world way out in the west there ! And I thought Cornwall was wild ! Fantastic pics and blog !Long may the blue skies last and good weather last !

    Like

    1. Thank you Lorraine, I had an amazing time

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