Wednesday 19th June 2024
Day 5: WAW – Slieve League to Mullaghmore Head
It was a quiet, chilly night, but I was snug with my hot water bottle. My plan for the morning was to have breakfast at the visitor centre before leaving. The campsite website said it opened at 8 AM, which would have been very handy, but alas, it said 9:30 AM on the door. A bit too late, so I hit the road. I also needed to find a signal to send you all my blog updates.
Passing by Muckros Head (Cionn Mhucrois), there were fine views from the cliff. Apparently, it’s very popular with climbers. Finally, I got a signal down at Fintragh Bay (Bá Fhionntrá) and finished yesterday’s blog overlooking this lovely view.
Passed through Killybegs (Na Cealla Beaga), which means ‘little cells,’ a reference to early monastic settlements. And there, I finally found my Irish Breakfast… hoorah! I wasn’t even hungry, but I wanted to make sure I had one. Felt a bit ill after, but it lasted me all day.
Then, it was onto Donegal Castle and some fascinating history. Donegal (Irish: Dún na nGall), translates as ‘Fort of the Foreigner,’ possibly coming from a Viking fortress in the area destroyed in 1159… fascinating
The tower house had new roofing and flooring added, made of Irish Oak, in keeping with the original styles and techniques used in the 15th and 17th centuries.
Displays within the castle tell of the Annals of the Four Masters, chronicles of medieval Irish history. This impressive work blends fact and myth, with entries spanning from the ‘Deluge,’ dated as 2,242 years after creation, to AD 1616.
The Myth: “The Milesians or sons of Míl are the final race to settle in Ireland, according to the Lebor Gabála Érenn, a medieval Irish Christian history. The Milesians represent the Irish people. They are Gaels who sail to Ireland from Iberia (Hispania) after spending hundreds of years travelling the Earth.”
The Fact: Genetic studies show that the closest relatives of the Irish are found in Galicia and the Basque region of Northern Spain.
Even more interesting, out of curiosity, I asked the historian at the castle to check his Irish Names book for my surname. Twomlow, being very similar to Twomey. He didn’t find Twomlow, but he did find Twamley, the earlier version of our name in the 1700s. So we were knocking around in Wicklow in the 1700s, doing what, I wonder?
After this revelation, I had a quick look at Donegal Abbey, a ruined Franciscan Priory overlooking Donegal Bay. A very peaceful place.
Passing through Ballyshannon, I was aiming to stop and explore. It sounded quintessentially Irish, but in reality, it was mostly one main high street – a harsh assessment, I know, but true in my view.
Onward to Bundoran, hailed as a surfer’s paradise. Erm… it felt more like Blackpool to me, so I kept on driving.
Passing out of Donegal and into County Sligo, the route passes Creevykeel Court Tomb, my next distraction
Similar to yesterday’s Court Tomb, Creevykeel Court Tomb was a huge structure and endeavour. It reminded me of the ‘Death Ship’ in Orkney; in a similar shape, it could easily have been a ship to the afterlife.
It dates back to the Neolithic Period, 4000-2500 BC, when waves of colonising farmers migrated to Ireland from the continent.
Then, there was a rather unexpected and dramatic diversion around the Gleniff Horseshoe, near Ballintrillick. It’s a small, single-lane 10km route with breathtaking scenery alongside the Dartry Mountains that tower above on either side, including Benbulben and Truskmore.
It’s difficult to describe, but imagine driving around the inside of a giant caldera… magnificent.
Finally, I made it to Mullaghmore Head around 3:30 PM, my end point for today. I had a bimble about and the obligatory ice cream, then set off to find a place for the night.
As I discovered, Sligo Co. Council are a bit anti-overnight parking. I got as far as the lovely Streedagh Point, a Site of Special Scientific Interest (shame they’ve built on most of it), only to find big ‘no camping’ signs.
So I had a little siesta on the beach until it got too chilly. Then, I headed back to Mullaghmore.
And here I am with a Guinness at last.
Spent a lovely evening on the harbour, chatting to local lady Adele, who told me all about the best places to swim and why she’s afraid to poop in the wild… I blame the Guinness. It’s a nice little village; the locals spent their time in and out of the water and the pier sauna – idyllic.
I’m making good time and should reach Ballintubber Abbey, and the start of the Tochar Padraigh walk, on Saturday. Happy days!
Tales From The Trails 
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