For our Mum, who never got to see us do this together, RIP 14/10/2024

Saturday 26th April 2025
Day 2 CWT: Glenfinnan to A Chuil Bothy (Glendessary) – Approx: 14 Miles

Slept like the dead after yesterday’s epic hike and woke up to the calls of a very enthusiastic cuckoo. They would be ever-present on our journey and the soundtrack of our Cape Wrath Trail adventure. Their distinctive two-note call, a quintessential sound of the Highlands, in springtime and early summer.

These fascinating birds are summer visitors to the UK, arriving from their wintering grounds in Africa. Their persistent “cuck-oo, cuck-oo” echoing across the glens and lochs is a sound that many hikers associate with the remoteness and beauty of the Scottish hills. A cheerful accompaniment to our journey north.

A quick (and bracing!) wash in the river followed by ‘Tent Meals – Subtly Cinnamon Porridge’. We broke camp and hit the trail for Glenfinnan where the promise of hot coffee and flushing toilets await!

Glenfinnan itself is famous for the Glenfinnan Monument, commemorating the Jacobite rising of 1745. We paused to admire the views across Loch Shiel, the sky brooding in the background.

Refreshed and feeling human again, we timed our departure perfectly to catch the steam train puffing its way across the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct. Built 1897-1901 by Sir Robert McAlpine, the viaduct is part of the Mallaig extension of the West Highland Line. This connection between Fort William and Mallaig was vital for the local fishing industry and the Highlands economy, and many consider it a very scenic train journey.

A much more leisurely pace today, with dramatic Highland views, and obvious tracks. Mostly overcast, it was perfect weather for hiking. It’s very dry on the trail at the moment, and a good time to walk it.

Corryhully bothy provided a welcome stop, miso, oat cakes, water and electricity, before heading up and over the bealach.

A steady pace saw us comfortably over the other side. There were lots of people on the trail, and there was a bit of a race to secure a spot at the next bothy.

Descending Gleann Cuirnean, the path got rougher with scrambles where the river had eroded it. We stayed left and crossed before a steep ravine to the larger River Pean.

By pure luck, we reached the bridge over the River Pean, somehow completely bypassing the notorious bog. There is apparently a sign warning you away? described as having thigh-deep sections! Pean Bridge, is a literal death trap. We crossed without plunging to our watery graves and headed into the woods for the final stretch.

It was a long slog winding around to the other side of Monadh Gorm, but the woodland trail path was good, and the scenery pretty. We finally arrived at A Chuil Bothy around 5:30 pm.

It was a sociable night – we shared with a friendly group from the Netherlands and a Brummie named Rob. There was just enough space for us! I was on a very rickety old camp bed, will I survive the night?

Dinner and a campfire brought a close to a wonderful day