For our Mum, who never got to see us do this together, RIP 14/10/2024

Tuesday 29th April 2025
Day: 5 Kinloch Hourn to Shiel Bridge – Approx: 10 – 11 miles

A good night’s sleep, thankfully no rain overnight meant dry tents. I was up before everyone else, 5:30 am. In a camping field full of men, and no shrubs, an early start is essential!

Deer were grazing peacefully next to us, quietly munching on the morning vegetation and watching me with curiosity. These would likely be Red Deer, a common sight in the Scottish Highlands.

The sun is shining, and the rivers have dropped dramatically in just 24 hours. Impressive, the raw power of nature to transform the landscape so quickly.

Broke camp at 7:30 am and headed off on a pleasant track, which soon gave way to a demanding climb straight up a 23% manmade loose rock path – just over a mile of hard slog.

The geology here is likely dominated by Lewisian gneiss and Torridonian sandstone, the ancient bedrock that forms much of the rugged landscape of the Northwest Highlands.

A nice stretch of contouring followed before we began the ascent up the Bealach Coire Mhalagain, under the imposing Forcan Ridge. This bealach, separating Kinloch Hourn and Shiel Bridge, marks the highest point of our route today. A long, steep trudge led us upwards before we started descending via a rocky path with a man-made wall at its edge – likely a historic boundary marker or possibly related to past land management.

At this point, we were ahead of others from this morning’s camp. But then we saw everyone streaking along, leaving us behind. How? They must have the genes of mountain goats! What we were traversing couldn’t really be called a path; it was more like a quarried boulder field from hell. A challenging scramble was the only way forward.

Things improved after this for a while, then the trail down became increasingly rocky and boggy underfoot. It was hard to fully appreciate the stunning scenery, as you couldn’t take your eyes off the ground, lest you turn an ankle or be engulfed in one of the many bogs. These boggy areas are typical of the poorly draining soils in the high rainfall environment, often supporting unique plant life like sphagnum mosses and heathers

On the steepest part of the descent, I took a dramatic tumble, slipping in the mud. I fell backwards initially, thinking I’d just sit down. But due to the steepness, I think, I then managed to roll over my pack – athletic, I know – and somehow ended up face down with my arms and hiking sticks pointing uphill. My brother did pause to ask if I was okay before succumbing to hysterics. Nothing injured but my dignity, but it must have been a sight to behold!

It was a long and tedious walk down, with no easy walking to be found. The last two days we’ve been following red flags, marking out an endurance event. Such a leveller – we can barely walk this terrain, let alone run it!

Finally, the River Shiel came into sight, and we crossed safely – another complete contrast to the raging torrent of the day before. It was hot, and we were feeling a bit sun burned.

Finally, a sight for sore eyes as we dropped down straight to Glenshiel Campsite. Hot showers and laundry awaited us – but not just yet. I was greeted excitedly by a fellow female Cape Wrather, shouting, “You must go to the chocolate shop, go now” trail sisters looking out for one another!

We enjoyed the most amazing coffee and cake, they also played great jazz music. Highly recommended doing this first, then going for a shower.

The campsite is quiet and lovely, with plenty of room for tents and excellent facilities: showers, washing machine, dryer, and charging points. The Highland Lavender and Wild Scottish Raspberry hand wash smelt amazing!

The lads are having issues with ticks, a common hazard in these areas with sheep and deer populations. I saw one on my hand before it had a chance to feed – a reminder to check regularly.

We picked up our food parcel, sent from home earlier in the week. The warden here is very welcoming and encouraging. She told us we had done the hardest bit of the trail – fingers crossed that is indeed the case!

The Kintail Lodge Hotel, a short walk down the main road, provided a much-welcomed hearty meal and beer.

We encountered random street goats and the angriest llamas I’ve ever seen on route.

We were joined by fellow Wrathers Rob and Alan, and we relived some of the highlights (and lowlights!) of our journey so far.