For our Mum, who never got to see us do this together, RIP 14/10/2024

Thursday 1st May 2025
CWT Day: 7 Killilin to Strathcarron – Approx: 7 miles

A comfortable night in the woods on a mossy bed. Tawny owls called in the night. Midges were waiting to greet us this morning, so it was a quick decamp and off to midge free paths.

An easy restful walk today on reasonable paths and 4 x 4 tracks. Following the River Ling, which eventually flows into Loch Carron and supports populations of salmon and trout. However, we noticed the scarcity of fish in the rivers encountered so far. While the Highland streams are often depicted as teeming with life, we only spotted a couple of small trout.

This raises questions about the health of these waterways, with potential factors like natural acidity and peat runoff possibly playing a role. It’s a reminder that even in seemingly pristine landscapes, ecological balance can be complex.

Moving away from the river, just before some ruins, we headed west up and over to Attadale, via forestry areas that have largely been decimated. These areas show the large-scale impact of commercial forestry, a significant industry in the Highlands.

Then a long stretch down, the rock chippings will destroy your feet, but it’s still better than the last few days. These rough tracks seem typical for access in forestry management areas.

The trail drops down to Attadale Botanical Gardens, a surprising oasis of vibrant colours and lush foliage nestled in the rugged Highland landscape. These privately owned gardens flourish thanks to the mild, maritime climate influenced by the Gulf Stream, allowing a diverse and exotic collection of plants from around the world to thrive.

Within the gardens, we found the quirky DIY ‘Midge Bite’ cafe, a charmingly rustic self-service setup where you can brew your own hot drinks and purchase cakes and snacks. I don’t think I’ve seen my brother look so happy for days. A welcome interval amidst the botanical beauty.

The gardens end at the main road and Attadale Train Station, (a small shelter) on the scenic Kyle Line, which connects Inverness to the west coast. We couldn’t believe our luck, it enabled us to miss out walking 3k down the dangerous A890. You simply wave down the train (£2 each) and it neatly dropped us straight to the Strath Hotel, 5 minutes later.

Camping is £5, for another £5 you get a shower, and our food parcel awaited. Tents pitched, we showered and divvied out the food, it was a big resupply and our packs would now be heavy again for the next few days.

Camping is just at the side of the hotel in a small sheltered paddock. The old post office attached, will open as a bunk house next week, should be great.

A much needed lunch in the bar, Cullen Skink, a thick Scottish soup made of smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions. Plus a cheeky ‘Black Cow’.

The host Jimmy, was very friendly and accomodating, he was happy to let us lurk about and charge our phones. We booked dinner for later in the bar, traditional haggis and neeps for me, when in Rome.

We are learning a new word Scunnered, which summed up how we felt Sunday and Monday. This Scots word perfectly describes a feeling of being fed up or utterly exhausted.

It’s been a lot colder today, but our host leaves the front door open to the hotel, so campers can access the toilets. The radiators were on all night, if we had known we would have curled up in the foyer.

A fun bit of respite today, and hopefully a bit more recharged for tomorrow.