For our Mum, who never got to see us do this together, RIP 14/10/2024

Tuesday May 6th 2025
CWT Day 12: Knockdamph Bothy to Kinlochlailsh – Approx: 18.6 miles (we cracked out some miles today!)

A French lad rocked up last night as we sat by the fire, he looked like he’d walked a hundred miles. He had apparently come from Shenavall Bothy. A phenomenal hike if he walked it in a day? we were there two days ago. He didn’t join us, he went into the other room, ate, and there was silence. At 8 pm, we had just bedded down, and another guy arrived. We had a brief exchange; he disappeared upstairs, another flurry of noise then silence.

A quiet and comfortable night in this lovely bothy, and we woke to another very frosty morning. Setting off at 7 am with icy fingers, we headed, approx 4 miles, for the Schoolhouse bothy for breakfast.

This bothy, now maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association, has an interesting past: it originally served as a schoolhouse for the children of local estate workers, likely between the 1920s and 1940s. After its closure, it fell into disuse before being adopted as a shelter for walkers.

Simon was just breaking camp as we arrived, convinced we’d be ahead of them. Rob and Alan, who had also stayed here, had left earlier. I’m sure our pace is the slowest on the trail, as Simon, Rob, and Alan had managed a side trip to Ullapool for provisions the previous day and then taken a more direct route here.

Onward, on pretty woodland tracks, following the River Einig, for our second breakfast and a takeout sandwich at Oykel Bridge. Just like Dartmoor, there are two bridges here: an old one and a new one. Oykel Bridge is particularly famous for its salmon fishing, drawing anglers to the River Oykel, which also historically formed a boundary between Sutherland and Ross.

A well-known stage on the Cape Wrath Trail, offering one of the few opportunities for resupply and basic amenities at the hotel. The staff were super friendly and I felt a little awkward sitting in their nice lounge smelling and looking like a feral animal. The last two days, we have barely seen a soul on the trail. But, we met another ‘wrather’ having his elevenses, walking North to South. He gave us some good intel on the trail ahead.

This two-day section is often described as ‘hard’ for its potential difficulty and navigational challenges across open terrain. We had anticipated a very hard day, but it was really lovely. In bad weather, I’m sure Glendouchery would have been tough, particularly its river crossings. But after that part of the trail, it’s mostly 4×4 tracks, gently undulating and easy walking.

We followed the River Oykel for the rest of the day. It was nice to mosey along through woodland. It was very heartening to see they have rewilded the plantations here with native trees. This is part of broader efforts in Scotland to restore native woodlands and boost biodiversity. The birds are certainly pleased; we spotted Greenshanks on the river, and Willow or Reed Warblers mobbing a Cuckoo. That was cool; I’d never seen a cuckoo up close before.

As you get closer to Loch Ailsh, the 4×4 track narrows into a path, boggy in places. Then you turn inland at a handy CWT sign that tells you to follow ‘blue markers’ – they are ‘painted rocks’. This ends at a road that leads to the Loch.

Our intention was to get beyond Oykel Bridge to cut down the miles to Inchnadamph tomorrow, a 20-mile walk. Loch Ailsh is mentioned in guides as having ‘plenty’ of places to camp. There isn’t, unless you enjoy tussocks and boggy ground.

We kept walking and camped just up the river from Benmore Lodge, by a nice babbling brook and woodland. Benmore Lodge is a notable estate building in a very remote setting, often associated with deer stalking and fishing.

Amazingly, we racked up 30km today. So not too many miles tomorrow before a proper bed, a good shower, and resupply. But our Cape wrather friend warned of bog and dodgy waterfall crossings. So, maybe back in the boggy badlands tomorrow!?

But tonight, we have bird song.