Chapter 2: Ancient Paths to The Land of the North Folk

Mon 12th June

Day 9: Castle Acre to Holm next to sea and then Hunstanton
(Approx 23 miles – back to the van

I know why the Romans left Britain

Sleep was elusive last night, trepidation about the day to come. Plus the bright green light from the fire exit sign kept me awake. The heat and the zing zing of a giant mosquito that was determined to feast on my blood.

In the end I moved beds to a darker corner away from the light and in the hope the mosquito wouldn’t find me

Sleep finally came, and I woke to clear skies with thin cloud. My heart sank. I packed my kit for the last time and headed for breakfast

But first to rescue a black bird from the kitchen. Flying into the window in panic, I finally managed a gentle extraction

Alison popped out to say goodbye and good luck, I would need it. I wished I could stay

Muesli, coffee, and with toast stuffed in my mouth. I hit the trail 6.15 am with a wet towel on my neck and carrying 3.5 litres water

This last section, is a long very dry route in every sense, no facilities anywhere on route until Ringstead, unless you want to walk off route to one of the villages

Blue skies with some cloud initially, the trail gods had answered my prayers, for now. Road for the first hour or so. There is a path the other side of the hedge, but the road was faster and free of dirt and dust. There would be plenty of that soon enough

Whilst walking, I thought I would check my parking. It ran out at 8 pm yesterday. Shit, I forgot that rest day in West Stow. I’d originally planned to push through

The parking site wouldn’t let me back date. So I added another day’s parking £2, then contacted them to throw myself on their mercy. They haven’t got back to me yet

Soon the road diverted on to dirt tracks. Sand, flint chunks and grit or all three at once. They were narrow and baked into hard ruts that made walking difficult and slowed progress.

The trail climbed very gradually to a wonky Trig.

Cloud started forming 8am, what relief, but it was short-lived

Just after Peddars Lodge, the trail enters Sandringham, the paths were kinder, and smoother

By 9 o’clock it was boiling, whatever cloud cover there was made little difference. Flies were my constant torment. I had bites all down my left arm and leg. Obviously, the right side wasn’t tasty

I know why the Romans left Britain. Building and patrolling this Roman Road was the end for them. The heat, the dust, the inhospitable nature of the land. The road doesn’t even follow a water source.

According to research, the route that would become Peddars Way was established as a military route between their garrison at Colchester and Iceni land. Allowing them to police the territory efficiently

It became known as the Peddars Way in the 15th/16th century. Due to the Pilgrims that walked the route to Walsingham. Then a religious centre. Bet they had great holy coffee on the go.

Acres of endless barley, potato, and pig fields. With heat to rival the continent, you don’t need to travel far. If you love dry barren wastelands, come to rural Norfolk

So inhospitable, even Kites won’t live here… I’ve not seen any Lizards, and they love hot places. We even have them in Cornwall

By 10 a.m., my neck towel was bone dry, and I was struggling in the heat.

My strategy was to walk 5 by 5 – 2 by 2
Basically, walk 5 miles, which takes about two hours. Rest, walk another 5. But in this heat, I was stopping more frequently.

12.30pm, I crashed out beneath the shade of a tree. I really thought I couldn’t walk any further. Lunch was a ham sandwich and a molten snicker bar. I slept awhile and woke to a fresh wind

Big clouds began to gather. A tale wind blew me on toward the coast. Thunder rumbled in the distance around 2pm.

Before Ringstead, there is a row of cottages. One has a sign for hikers and dog walkers to use their tap. I soaked my towel again and pressed on

Finally, Ringstead, and a huge coke and ice at the pub. A small local shop tempted me in with ice-cream and iced coffee. Not holy coffee, but needs must

Clearly trail weary, the lady behind the counter enquired where I had walked from. She then gave me my goods for free. What a lovely thing to do, I felt emotional

Bashing out my last two miles, a cyclist shouted from behind “got far to go”

“Two more miles,” I replied, and we both punched the air. The sea on the horizon called me on.

Speaking of cycling… they are seriously missing a trick here. Why doesn’t someone create a chain of cycle hire stations along the route. They would make a killing… you heard it here ‘build it and they will come’

The walk ended unceremoniously on the dunes of Holme Beach. No fan fair or big sign saying ‘the end’. Just a group of lost cyclists who also thought the route ended in the village

I headed along the beach to Hunstanton, ripping off my boots and walking barefoot. Shortly followed by the cyclists who took a leaf out of my book

The cool water was so soothing on my tired, aching feet. My walk ended with a swim… well, more like splashing about in a foot of water. You would need to walk at least 2 miles out to sea to get up to your chest

And so ended my epic lone odyssey to walk the Greater Ridgeway. A plan hatched during lockdown, a dream, a quest to walk 362 miles, in the footsteps of ancients, through 5000 years of history

From the land of Wessex to the Land of the Northfolk

Starting in May 2022 from Lyme Regis to Ivinghoe Beacon

Via the Wessex Ridgeway and the Ridgeway National Trail over 14 days

http://fern-weh.uk/2023/02/21/the-greater-ridgeway/

And starting June this year 2023 from Ivinghoe Beacon to Holme next to sea in 9 days

Via the Icknield Way Trail and the Peddars Way

And although the Peddars Way finishes in Holme next the sea. The Greater Ridgeway finishes in Hunstanton

Oh well what’s another couple of miles

Lastly, a 20-minute walk back to my van ‘The Beast’. She was right where I left her, safe and sound, a sight for sore feet

For all its rigours, the Wessex Ridgeway was my favourite section, the Avebury and the Marlborough Downs. You are tripp over history everywhere

The straight roads and dirt tracks are not for me. My advice, shoot through them on a horse or bike

Now, like any good Roman, I’m off to soak in exotic oils for at least a month to rehydrate my sun baked skin

I’m never doing anything like this again… until the next time lol

If you want to catch up on the story so far see the link: https://wordpress.com/post/fern-weh.uk/753

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