For our Mum, who never got to see us do this together, RIP 14/10/2024

Thursday 24th April 2025

The day finally arrived! My brother and I are officially kicking off our Cape Wrath Trail adventure today! It’s been ages since we last held hands like this (throwback pic for proof! 😉), but I couldn’t imagine a better partner for this epic journey.

Friday 25th April
Day: 1 CWT Corran to Glenfinnan – Approx 20 miles (felt like a 100)

We drove through the night 12hrs to Fort William, arriving 7am. My brother had the window open, I had the heating on, he left half eaten crisps everywhere. The anticipation of finally starting the Cape Wrath Trail after all the planning kept us (mostly) going through the long drive.

This iconic long-distance route stretches for approximately 200 – 250 miles (320 – 402 km) through the remote and rugged Scottish Highlands, traditionally starting in Fort William and heading northwest to the lighthouse at Cape Wrath.

The plan, to catch the earliest bus to Corran ferry, but a parking palava put a spanner in that works. A post on the ‘Cape Wrath Trail Guide Group’ Facebook page, suggested you could pay £11 for a month’s parking in An Aird 2. However, you can’t pay on the app when you get there – it’s online only. Several phone calls later, and I was still in the dark about whether ‘the beast’ was actually covered for the duration.

A taxi (£22) got us to the 8.30 ferry. The next bus at 10.30am would have meant a late start. The ferry crossing marks the real beginning of the walking trail, leaving behind the more populated areas and heading into the wilder landscapes of Lochaber.

A short sail and a promising coffee wagon on the other side. Sadly the “we will be ready in 10 mins”, stretched to 20, we left uncaffeinated.

A gentle mosy along the sea Loch, by road, sunshine on our backs, a helpful tailwind, and birdsong filling the air. Absolutely beautiful!

This area of Lochaber is steeped in history, with ties to clan battles and Jacobite uprisings. The geological landscape here is dominated by ancient metamorphic rocks, carved by glaciers over millennia, creating the dramatic lochs and mountains we started to encounter.

Turning left up Conna Glen after a few miles, a long a straightforward track took us all the way to the Bealach. Along the way, we came across two slow worms having a face-off – a little wildlife drama.

I was particularly excited by the incredible lichen on the rocks, patterns that looked like the stone itself.

A welcome break by a river to brew some miso soup, with oat cakes, and a much needed soak of our tired feet. My brother played his flute – a brief interlude of music in the wild. Little did we know, it was one of the last times that flute would make an appearance, soon to be posted home. There would be precious little time for such frivolity on the tougher sections of this trail!

Toward the end of the glen, the route bends right for a tough climb, up and over the bealach, and down a boggy track toward Glenfinnan. A real taste of the terrain to come – a mix of challenging ascents and descents.

We had a bit of rain on and off from 4pm – a reminder of the unpredictable Highland weather! We set up camp by the river before Glenfinnan, near the car park, just past the power station.

A fantastic, but gruelling day, utterly exhausted and severely sleep deprived. I disassociated through most of it. The trail is quite busy, saw a few other hikers along the way, including the ‘Old Man’ who had introduced himself on facebook. The sense of camaraderie with other hikers tackling this demanding trail is definitely part of the experience.