For our Mum, who never got to see us do this together, RIP 14/10/2024

Sunday 27th April 2025
Day 3: Glen Dessary to Barisdale – Approx: 15 -17 miles of Knoydart Brutality!

A torturous night on the dodgy camp bed, and a mizzley morning greeted us in the wilds of Glendessary. This area marks our true entry into Knoydart, often referred to as Britain’s last wilderness. Its remoteness and challenging terrain are legendary amongst hikers.

Breakfast, another quick wash in a stream and a visit to the woods with the trowel, before hitting the trail. The geology here is predominantly Lewisian gneiss, some of the oldest rocks in the world, creating a rugged and unforgiving landscape.

A steep walk through the shelter of woods, before the wilds truly opened up. There was much beauty in the dramatic glens and towering peaks, but in complete contrast to yesterday’s relatively dry paths, today was defined by water. The steep-sided valleys of Knoydart, carved by glaciers, often lead to fast-flowing rivers and saturated ground.

More dodgy bridges on route. You really start to ponder if Forestry Land Scotland has a rather unique approach to trail maintenance – perhaps a subtle form of natural selection? Often featuring planks that have mysteriously vanished or enthusiastically embraced decay, this particular masterpiece even boasted a handrail that offered an… interactive experience, just to keep things interesting.

We reached Sourlies around 1:30 pm and sheltered for a while, having a warming miso with oatcakes. A great find was a leftover gas bottle, as mine was running low. Rainwater pouring off the roof replenished our supplies. Shortly after, the group from the Netherlands arrived, soaking wet, and decided to end their day there – a wise decision perhaps?

With plenty of day ahead, we decided to push on to Barisdale, it was only about 10 miles. Up to this point, it had all been going so well, we had managed to navigate around a lot of boggy ground. But after Soulies, it all went to shit.

The change in terrain around Soulies marks a shift towards more exposed and often waterlogged conditions as you traverse deeper into the heart of Knoydart. There’s a very good reason why the military frequently uses Knoydart for training exercises – its unforgiving landscape provides an ideal environment for testing endurance and resilience.

We navigated the marshy estuary, across Loch Nevis like pros, and crossed the robust and new Carnach Bridge. Pleased with ourselves, we continued on what we thought would now be a straightforward track. But, unbeknown to us, the rivers were now in spate, from the rain. There are several river and tributary crossings along this stretch, which were now torrents.

This section of the CWT is notorious for its river crossings, and the steep gradients of the surrounding mountains mean that even moderate rainfall can turn streams into powerful obstacles. Despite searching for a shallower spot, we eventually had to accept that wading through deep water was the only option, a rite of passage for Cape Wrath Trail hikers.

I could not have done this on my own, my brother reassuringly coaxing me across each torrent and bravely taking the first steps into the fast-flowing water to help me. Knee to thigh depth, where I could feel my legs being dragged in the current – a stark reminder of the raw power of nature in this landscape.

Things did not improve as the ground and terrain got increasingly technical. Rocky paths, steep ascents, and saturated ground underfoot made every step a challenge. Our ponchos now flapping widly, were now becoming a hazard and needed to be removed and stowed away safely.

A last huge climb out of a valley saw my legs working to failure with every step. My brother’s long legs fared considerably better than my own. Seeing him forge ahead at times felt quite soul-destroying! All I could think about was needing to rest and refuel. The only creatures truly thriving in these conditions were the abundance of Newts and Frogs.

By the light of the moon, we staggered into Barisdale Bothy at 10 pm, disturbing everyone. Tired blinking eyes, popping out from sleeping bags, including our new trail buddy Rob. But we were made welcome and there were two beds left, so at least we didn’t have to pitch tents. We went to bed without dinner, exhausted