For our Mum, who never got to see us do this together, RIP 14/10/2024

Monday 28th April 2025
Day 4: Barisdale to Kinlochourn – Approx: 6-8 miles (A Short But Mighty One!)

After blowing in like the storm last night, a turbulent night continued in the bothy. Multiple squeaking and groaning airbeds punctuated my fatigue-induced slumber. Before long it was morning, the wind was still gusting, and the rain persisted. There was much hubbub as everyone cooked breakfast and packed for another day on the trail.

We left Barisdale around 8:30 am, to be greeted by a young stag casually munching grass right outside. An initially easy track soon gave way to the more typical Knoydart terrain.

Today’s walk was incredibly scenic, hugging the shores of Loch Hourn. This fjord-like sea loch, whose name translates from Gaelic as “Loch of Hell” or “Lake of the Caves,” stretches inland for about 22 km and is surrounded by dramatic mountains. Its depth and connection to the sea influence the unique ecosystem found along its shores.

We passed through sections of temperate rainforest, a relatively rare habitat found in the UK’s wetter western fringes. These areas are characterised by high rainfall, mild temperatures, and lush vegetation, supporting a rich diversity of mosses, liverworts, and ferns – like the giant pillows of fern moss, all plump with the constant rain.

The beauty came with its challenges: scrambling up and down wet rock, my legs reaching failure on repeat after yesterdays efforts. Made all the more treacherous by the ever-present mud. The underlying geology of this area, part of the Moine Thrust Belt, has resulted in complex and often steep rock formations, contributing to the undulating and demanding nature of the trail.

The rivers were torrents again today, making for more difficult crossings. We reflected on our long trek yesterday, questioning if we should have stopped at Soulies. We agreed that pushing on was the right call. After 24 hours of relentless rain, those river crossings would likely be impassable today.

As it was, the rivers were boiling, and the paths had transformed into flowing streams. We slopped, squelched, and slipped our way up and down the elevations, finally making it to Kinloch Hourn by a respectable 1:30 pm. Diving into the welcoming Lochhournhead B&B and Tea Room. After stripping off our dripping gear, we enthusiastically ordered everything on the menu, just as our fellow hiker Rob arrived and followed suit!

We stayed in the warm and dry until they threw us out at 4 pm. The food was good, but be warned: they charge £5 for WiFi, £5 for charging your phone, and a hefty £20 for a shower (£15 if you bring your own towel!). They do have rooms and evening meals available, if you have ‘the money’ but those book up quickly, as there are limited accommodation options in this remote area.

We are now camped on a grassy area, just over the bridge, by the river, the rain had finally stopped. The forecast is promising for the rest of the week. There is quite a gathering here, however, we are strategically hiding in our tents, attempting to evade the notorious Scottish midges!

After an hour or so of being here, the river was already going down.